Although sizing is usually established through the development of a size chart, the real elements of fit can only be ascertained after the creation of a garment pattern, based on the measurements of the size chart. Therefore, one of most fundamental stages in the garment manufacturing business is patternmaking. This study developed basic pattern blocks for garment manufacture using anthropometric data of Ghanaian girls (7 to 12 years), measured, and processed into a size chart in a previous study. First of all, the measurements of the size chart were extracted, after which one extra size (GH 6) was created based on the intervals observed between the sizes. Basic pattern blocks were developed and validated by producing trial samples and testing them on a sub-section of the target population. The major contribution of this study is the availability of a variation of ready-made standard garment blocks for use by garment manufacturers, and an enhanced fit of garments produced for the children's wear sector.
Top1. Introduction
The successful manufacture of garments requires the development of patterns for each design. Garment fit is directly related to the body dimensions that are built into the basic pattern blocks of the garment. Therefore, the main inputs in pattern and garment production are accurate measurements of the target population (Podbev et al., 2014; Gill, 2015). Without accurate measurements, garment manufacturers will not have the right statistics to produce good fitting garments (Adu-Gyamfi, 2006; Hsu, 2009). Body shapes and sizes, however, differ among countries, ethnicities, age, and gender (Salehi & Shahrabi, 2012; Muslim et al., 2014; Bari et al., 2015; Zakaria, 2016). Therefore, it is important to develop and use of measurement standards that fit specific target populations, in order to improve the garment manufacturing business (Hsu, 2009; Mpampa et al., 2010). Body measurements are usually standardized and classified into official sizes as is common in developed countries like the US and UK (Adu-Boakye, 2012; Forster & Ampong, 2012). In countries where official size charts are not available, most garment manufacturers use foreign size charts and varied methods of size estimation (Adu-Boakye, 2012 ; Widyanti et al., 2017). These practices lead to non-standardized measurements and subsequent fit problems.
Pattern making is one of the earliest and most critical stages in the development of a garment (Hsu, 2009; Puri, 2013; Gill, 2015). The process of garment manufacture involves the transformation of the original design into a pattern based on body measurements (Hsu, 2009). Garment samples are then sewn, fitted, and amended. The patterns which are finally obtained, become the major industrial tool for production and are taken through numerous stages such as pattern grading, marker production, spreading and cutting, in order to produce final garments (Hsu, 2009). Pattern making therefore, forms a fundamental part of sizing, since the fit of the garment is closely linked to the body dimensions incorporated in the basic pattern blocks (Podbev et al., 2014; Gill, 2015). When the body measurements are not built into a pattern, it leads to production flaws and cause numerous problems throughout the production chain (Hsu, 2009). A pattern set which bears with the right measurements therefore becomes the basic tool for garment manufacture. The use of accurate patterns helps to solve numerous industry problems like increasing customer base; demand for new products; short lead times; demand for volumes and cost management (Puri, 2013). With the absence of accurate patterns, garment manufacturers could lose a lot of resources such as fabric and time in addition to high costs of production, rejected goods and loss of business credibility.
An anthropometric size chart has been formulated specifically for Ghanaian pre-teen girls, a demographic identified as facing challenges in clothing fit. This size chart furnishes essential data for manufacturers producing or intending to produce garments for Ghanaian pre-teen girls and analogous groups. One innovative way to present the size chart is to embed the measurements into basic pattern blocks. Additionally, the majority of Ghanaian garment manufacturers are accustomed to custom sewing through the free-hand method. Consequently, they exhibit a lack of enthusiasm towards developing basic patterns for garment production. This aversion and lack of skill in pattern-making among Ghanaian garment manufacturers may hinder their utilization of the created size chart. Thus, there is a pressing need to devise innovative strategies to encourage the adoption and utilization of the size chart.